Valentine's Day Wines for Romance

Now that the sandstorms have cleared, romance is back in the air. It's Valentine's Week, time to unleash love-laced scents with every swirl, and savor sips of wines built for love.

Here are Valentine's Day wine picks to get your juices flowing. Let the swooning begin!

Bubblies

While Champagne makes a fine traditional choice, sparklers that let loose with exotic aromas are sure to get you in the mood for love. Say amore with an Italian Moscato, whether a fine-fizz frizzante or full-sparkling spumante. Don't be put off by some of the mass-production stuff you may have glugged down during the Moscato mania of the past few years. The real deal from Piedmont is perfumy with orange blossom aromas and a peachy palate that's bellissima.

If slightly sweet isn't your thing, try a brut rosé sparkler. We like Mirabelle by Northern California's Schramsberg, a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Made in the traditional method perfected in Champagne, France, Mirabelle is beautiful to look at and bursting with fresh, red-fruited flavor. This dry, perky rosé goes with a wide range of foods, from pizza for casual lovebirds to chicken and fish. 

Want to pull out all stops this Valentine's? Match a grower's Champagne to a free-spirited lover, or make your stylista smile with a designer label such as Krug or Tattinger.  

Rosé

All pretty in pink, rosé is springtime love in a glass, even in the dead of winter. Rosé rocks romance, and comes in a range of styles from around the world. As a wine for pairing up and down the menu, it has few competitors. Rosé can sail along with a variety of small plates or tackle a range of adventurous main dishes. Best of all, rosé leaves your palate feeling refreshed and ready for more – perhaps a few after-dinner smooches. Beyond reliable rosés from southern France, get frisky with rosés made from your favorite red wine grapes. Oregon rosés of Pinot Noir are as seductive as you might expect from that grape while Malbec from Argentina makes a deeply colored rosé that delivers full-throated fruity indulgence.

Whites

Even though a glass of white wine doesn't have that come-hither look you get from a glass of red, some whites have the flower power to seduce. Go with aromatic Viognier, whether a French homey from Condrieu or a Central Coast beauty from Calera, Wild Horse or Jaffurs. Go down under with an apricot-scented Viognier from Australia's Tahbilk or Yalumba, or head south of the border to tango with Torrontés from Argentina. She might not even miss the flowers you forgot to order. Well, maybe not.  

Reds

If you've gotten this far, you probably agree that reds are made for romance. And they are, especially reds that are soft on tannins yet big on aromatics and mouthfeel. Save the puckering for later and go with a plush Valpolicella made in the ripasso style. Zenato makes one that's creamy and exotic, while Allegrini's effort in Argentina, Enamore, is made to do just that. Other reds that reel in the sirens' call are Syrah (count on Washington, Central Coast, northern Rhone, South Africa and Australia), pricier Pinots (Shea, Bergstrom and Ayoub are consistent winners) and Argentine Malbec. With the latter, spend a bit more than you're used to spending for Malbec to indulge in a sinfully rich experience that's front-loaded by heady violet and boysenberry aromas with a chocolate and dark cherry climax. 

Dessert Wines

Pass on heavy dessert calories and drink your dessert instead. Stickies not only satisfy a sweet tooth but also wrap up Valentine's dinner with tasty, lingering warmth that will keep you in the mood for love. Choices abound, from complex and rich Ports to honeyed Muscat. Look to Australia's Rutherglen or Beaumes-de-Venise for bouquet and exotic flavors with just the right amount of sweetness. If money is no object, go for broke with Essencia, a Hungarian Tokaji that is pure luxury.

My pick this Valentine's? I'm going with the 2008 Clio, an opulent, glass-staining Monastrell-Cabernet blend from Jumilla, Spain. Let us know your love picks in the comments section. Happy Valentine's Day!

2013 Wine Resolutions

Diners' reactions to a preview of wines from the new Cork & Fork Wine Bar menu at Sunday's Cooking with Class wine-pairing dinner told us we're on the right track. The wine bar and restaurant, slated to open later this month next door to the cooking school, will feature boutique wine selections, flights and Chef Andie Hubka's ambitious menu of tasty, wine-friendly delights.

The winning quartet at Sunday's dinner – Le Colture Cruner Prosecco, DOCG, NV; Neil Ellis 2009 Stellenbosch Chardonnay; Januik 2009 Columbia Valley Red and Altocedro 2011 Año Cero Malbec – got me thinking about wine resolutions for the New Year.

In no particular order, here are a few wines I'm eager to taste in 2013, along with wine varieties, styles or regions I'd like to know better.

Try more sparklers. It's true: Bubbles make any get-together a more festive occasion. Plus, they go with foods from lightly breaded and fried goodies to sushi and quiche.

Resolve to try more: Lambrusco, Brachetto d'Acqui and other red sparkling wines, Sekt (sparkling Riesling, bring it on), American sparkling wines. 

Get to know Chardonnay – again. Tastes are changing, and Chardonnays from cooler climates with far less oakiness are tasting better and better.

Get to know more: Central Coast, Pacific Northwest, cooler-climate Australian, South African and New Zealand Chardonnays. And if anyone's pouring more white Burgundy, count me in.

Try more blends. Januik's Merlot blend was layered and provocative. At their best, blends are an alluring mix of balance and intrigue.

Resolve to try more: Bordeaux, Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Cotes du Rhone; super Tuscans, Portugal's white and red blends, Priorat, West Coast American blends.

Get to know more varietal wines. Argentine Malbec is the Shakira of South American wine. With their multicultural roots, both wine and singer have shaken up their respective worlds with unique style and inviting appeal.

Resolve to track down: Less-known Italian reds and whites (Lagrein, Teroldego, Arneis, Fiano); Austrian reds Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt; varietal wines from Greece, Corsica, Loire, Alsace, Sardegna and Sicily.

Did I forget anybody? If so, I'll find a spot for it during the next 363 days.

Catch your own inspiration at our next food and wine dinner on Sunday, January 27. Be sure to make a reservation to savor new flavors at Cork & Fork Wine Bar, too. Share your New Year's wine resolution list for 2013 in the comments section, or post your picks on the Write on Wines Facebook page.

Happy New Year!

Argentina, Part 2: More Than Malbec

It's an exciting time for Argentine winemaking. Despite long shadows cast by Malbec, the country's signature red grape, wines made from other grapes drew nods of approval at a recent tasting. In Part 2, we take a look at Argentine wines from Salta's dizzying high-altitude vineyards to cool, windswept Patagonia. 

Whites

Torrontés

Considered Argentina's signature white variety, this Muscat relative is usually unblended and unoaked. Floral aromatics and a flavor profile of tropical to citrus fruits underscored by minerality make Torrontés irresistible. The grape may excel in Salta, but versions from other regions don't disappoint. Sparkling versions pop with pure delight.

Colomé 2011 Torrontés

Lovely perfume, unoaked. From Calcaquí Valley. $16*

Finca La Linda 2012 Torrontés

From Salta. Floral and delicious. $10

Maipe 2011 Torrontés

From high-elevation Cafayate in Salta. Guava goodness rings in at a slightly higher alcohol (14.5%) than other versions. $10

Just behind Torrontés in white-grape acreage, Chardonnay is finding its place among Argentine whites.

Catena Alta 2010 Chardonnay

This 100% Chardonnay spent 12 to 16 months in mostly new oak. Elegant, with bright pineapple and citrus flavors. $33

Postales del Fin del Mundo 2010 Chardonnay

An excellent value and only lightly oaked, this 100% varietal from Patagonia shows crisp citrus and pear flavors. $12

Urraca 2009 Chardonnay

Shows nice complexity in a more Burgundian style. Aged six months in oak. $18

Sparkling

Chakana Sparkling

From Agrelo in the higher Lujan de Cuyo district of Mendoza. All stainless, half Chardonnay, half Pinot Noir. $19

Deseado 2012

A 100% Torrontés sparkler from Patagonia. A festive wine from Familia Schroeder that sees no oak with 9.5% alcohol and a touch of sweetness. $15

Toso Brut

100% Chardonnay, a Pascual Toso sparkler from Barrancas, Maipù district of Mendoza. Price not available.

Reds

No longer confined to blends, Syrah from Argentina's cooler districts shows minerality and heft with warmer regions yielding more fruit-forward versions.

Pascual Toso Alta Reserve 2007 Syrah

Chewy, 100% Syrah from Barrancas Vineyards in Mendoza's Maipù district. $60

Find value and uncompromising flavor in Argentine Cabernet Sauvignon.

Catena 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon

Aged 12 to 14 months in oak, from Mendoza. Firm, with blackberry and cassis. $20

Pascual Toso 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Made from 100% Cabernet and oak-aged for 12 months. Savory notes with firm acidity. From Barrancas, in Mendoza's Maipù district. $20

Urraca 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

Oak aged for 12 months; organic. $20

Other Argentine wines worth your wine dollar include Bonarda, usually made in an easy-drinking and fruity style and Pinot Noir, especially from cooler regions such as Rio Negro in the Patagonian south. 

With world-class winemakers, vast and diverse terroirs, and a strong wine culture rooted in European tradition, Argentina stands poised to enlarge its mark on the global wine scene. These wines provide a snapshot of Argentina's wine diversity, as mighty Malbec leads the charge.

* All prices estimated retail; expect retail outlet and regional variations.

Thanksgiving Wines

Enough already with all the stressing over Thanksgiving wines. Truth is, the Thanksgiving meal is a mess. The chances of choosing a wine to match that cacophony of flavors are slim to middling. Sweet to ultra sweet sweet potatoes and cranberry sauce. Bland meat to savory sausage-and-herb stuffing. Creamy dressing to green beans with almonds. What’s a host to do? 

One option is to go commando and serve what you and your guests will like, pairings be damned. Got a Zinfandel crowd? Go for it, serve Zin. Make it a 2009, a vintage whose cooler temperatures helped bring balance to this notorious heavyweight, plus lower alcohol levels. If your group sways Chard, try an unoaked or lighter-oaked version, perhaps from Oregon or a California no-brainer such as Monterey’s Morgan Metallico or Four Oaks Naked Chardonnay from Santa Barbara County.  

You can also challenge a white-wine crowd with an off-dry selection to complement the sweet spot in many Thanksgiving sides and sauces. German or Washington Riesling do the trick, as will a South African Chenin Blanc or an off-dry Loire Vouvray. Look for South Africa’s MAN Vintners or Ken Forrester; in the Loire, Guy Saget has got it down.

If that touch of sweetness doesn’t work for your gang, aim for Pinot Gris, which is about as food-friendly a white wine as you’re going to find. Oregon is the winner here, with great selections from King Estate, A to Z and others.

Not there yet? Don’t be blasé about rosé, a wine with enough pizazz to carry the Thanksgiving meal, from appetizers up to dessert. But if pink is not your deal, look to Pinot Noir to save the day. A fruitier version makes a more harmonious choice with turkey sides. Choose a warmer vintage or growing region, whether a 2009 from Oregon or a juicy California crowd-pleaser, as in the value-priced 2009 District 7 from not-so-warm Monterey. Plenty of 2010 beauties await too, from Sonoma on down the Central Coast. Flowers, Failla, Calera, Cambria, Byron, Sanford and Siduri are sure to deliver, California-style.

If you have a real party crowd on your hands, go bold with bubbles. A pretty Lambrusco from Italy will work its magic, while a perky and sweeter Shiraz sparkler like Jam Jar is ace to get your party started.

Finally, if your turkey wine doesn’t have to be born in the USA, look to France and cru Beaujolais. Skip the just-arrived nouveau stuff that can come up short in complexity and depth. Instead, seek out Beaujolais from designated cru regions, such as Côte de Brouilly, Morgon or Fleurie. The 2009 vintage produced a bevy of gorgeous wines – look for them, or take a shot at value-priced Beaujolais-Villages wines from producers such as Georges Duboeuf. To better enjoy their verve and fruity freshness, pop them in the frig for 20 minutes before serving time, just to give them a little chill.

So what’s this year’s pick for my Thanksgiving crowd? At the risk of being branded un-American, I’m going with the Château Thivin 2009 Côte de Brouilly. When first tasted earlier this year, it seemed to have Thanksgiving written all over it with enchanting aromatics and luscious, fresh fruit flavors wrapped around a core of earthy spice. Now that its exuberance has been tamed by a few more months in the bottle, I’m betting on this cru Beaujolais to pull our meal together with punch and intrigue. If it falls short or gets lost in the Thanksgiving flavor mosh pit, there won't be any stressing. Instead, we'll look ahead to the next wine-in-waiting, with someone eager to pop a cork and offer thanks for all that we have around the table, in each other, in life.

Remembering Serge Renaud

The wine world lost a force provocateur with the passing of Serge Renaud late last month. The Bordeaux-based scientist caused a disruptive moment with his 1991 appearance on the CBS program 60 Minutes, an episode credited with embedding the term French Paradox in the American lexicon. In the segment, Renaud described studies that linked lower rates of heart disease among the French to their consumption of healthy fats and custom of washing down fat- and cheese-laden meals with wine. When asked to explain why even the northern French, whose diet contains very little olive oil, had lower rates of heart disease than Americans, Renaud said, "My explanation is, of course, the consumption of alcohol."

By up-ending the prevailing view at the time that only considered alcohol's potential for harm, televised comments by Dr. Renaud and epidemiologist R. Curtis Ellison, MD created an ensuing buzz that helped propel funding and research activity to delve deeper into the paradox and, by extension, the nature and prevention of cardiovascular and other inflammatory diseases. The segment, which provided enough fodder to prompt 60 Minutes to revisit the story in 1995 and again in 2009, also caused Americans to rethink wine. What followed into the 1990s was a dramatic upswing in American wine consumption, and a new taste for reds. 

While not all of Dr. Renaud's theories gained traction, the University of Bordeaux professor offered the scientific community a new lens with which to study heart disease and diet. Specifically, Dr. Renaud's work shed light on alcohol's anti-clumping effects on platelets and how this action appeared to prevent the formation of blood clots that set the stage for heart attacks or strokes. His groundbreaking papers in the 1960s and 1970s challenged conventional wisdom regarding cholesterol and saturated fat through experiments that linked atherosclerosis and fatal clots with effects of dietary fats on platelet function and biochemical changes to blood vessel walls.

Perhaps his most far-reaching findings involved studies published during the 1980s and 1990s on effects of dietary change on health, specifically, the heart-protective Cretan or Mediterranean diet. A 1995 study by Renaud published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition criticized the so-called prudent diet, which the American Heart Association championed for heart patients at the time. Renaud's paper showed the prudent diet was clinically inferior to the Cretan Mediterranean diet of the 1960s, with more than a 70% reduction in cardiovascular events, heart attacks and overall death rates in heart patients who followed a Mediterreanean diet that gave less emphasis to meat and was richer in olive and canola oils, grains, fish, legumes – and red wine.

Cardiologist Tedd M. Goldfinger, Chairman of the Renaud Society, an association of medical professionals with an interest in the wine-health connection to which this author belongs, called the Society's patriarch "a champion of health through nutrition," whose many contributions included scientific insights into fatty acid metabolism and the range of benefits associated with a Mediterranean diet on cardiovascular health.

With Serge Renaud, Ph.D., (right) and R. Curtis Ellison, MD, Walla Walla, Wash. 2009

Looking back at his prolific career for an article in the Lancet published on the first day of the new millennium, Renaud reflected to author Bruno Simini, “If I hadn’t lived with my grandparents and great-grandparents on a vineyard near Bordeaux, perhaps this idea wouldn’t have occurred to me. When you see people reach the age of 80 or 90 years, who have been drinking small amounts of wine every day, you don’t believe wine in low doses is harmful.”

Renaud passed away within sight of his seaside home in Carcans Maubuisson in the Médoc, a few weeks shy of 85^th birthday. We are grateful for his contributions, and thankful to have shared in his gentle presence.

Argentina, Part 1: The Rise of Malbec

Argentina is standing tall. As the fourth-largest source of wine imports to the United States, Argentina's value wine exports have surged ahead of those from neighboring Chile. That means some good drinking awaits Malbec lovers.  

The Orange County event, co-sponsored by Wines of Argentina, featured 32 wineries from famed producers Achaval Ferrer to Vinecol, a small, organic producer of value-priced Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Rather than the one-note samba that some believe Malbec to be, this focused tasting allowed trade members to sample the country's signature red made from grapes grown at different altitudes, a range of terroirs and as expressions of the country's diverse winemaking styles. Oak treatments were hardly uniform, from unoaked, stainless steel versions to the fully wooded. Some wines were outright floral, while others had an effusive plummy or berry-rich profile. Weight and texture also varied, although most wines were racy with balanced fruit and only moderately aggressive tannins.

Outstanding value Malbecs in the $10-$15 range* included Graffigna Centenario Reserve 2010 San Juan; Maipe Reserve 2011 Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo; Luigi Bosca – Familia Arizu Finca La Linda 2010 Mendoza; Postales Del Fin Del Mundo 2011 Patagonia; and Alamos 2011 Mendoza. 

Favorites among the fresh, lively Malbec versions with food-friendly acidity in the $20 price range included Pascual Toso's Reserve 2010 Mendoza; Alamos Selección 2010 Mendoza; Renacer Punto Final Reserva 2010 Luján de Cuyo; Luigi Bosca 2010 Mendoza and Chakana Estate Selection 2011 Agrelo-Luján de Cuyo; and Urraca 2008 Luján de Cuyo.

Malbec also makes a good blending partner. Argentine winemakers have found success pairing the grape with Petit Verdot, Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, Tannat and yes, even Pinot Noir. Standout Malbec blends included Amalaya Tinto de Gran Altura 2010 Calchaquí Valley ($16); Colomé Malbec Estate 2010 Calchaquí Valley ($29); Renacer Enamore 2010 Luján de Cuyo ($25); Special Blend Del Fin del Mundo 2008 Patagonia ($45); Urraca Primera Reserva 2005 Luján de Cuyo ($25); Chakana Estate Selection Blend 2011 Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo ($25); and Familia Schroeder Pinot Noir – Malbec 2007 Patagonia ($60).

Although Malbec took center stage, producers offered excellent examples of wines made from other grapes that thrive in the vast country's diverse climates, altitudes and soils. In Part 2, we'll report on Argentina's sparkling, white and red wines that nearly stole the show.

* All prices are estimated retail and may vary depending on sales outlet and location.

Syrah Says, Don't Call Me Slutty

As October temperatures begin to drop, red wine lovers are reclaiming their love for big reds, which held about as much summertime appeal as a hot shower. Warm weather red rescue came in the form of Pinot Noir, Beaujolais and Barbera. Along with rosés and crisp whites, these three reds made cool company for fare that called out for juicy, low-tannins wines with good acid, lighter body and perky fruit.

Now that autumn is in the air, taste buds eager for heartier foods also begin to crave red wines with more animal – feral wines with bigger fruit and tongue-lashing tannins.

 Curtis 2007 Syrah, $12.95 at Dan's Wine Shop, Palm Desert

Syrah is a red that answers the call to fall. Rich in flavors of berry compote, Syrah has a meaty, leathery character that, depending on its style and origin, can also unfurl layers of smoke, herbs and peppery spice. Whether known as Syrah or by its Aussie moniker Shiraz, this red's flavors and girth play well against savory fall foods such as game meats, root vegetable dishes, stews and lamb.

So why all the Syrah dissing in the wine press? And why are sommeliers, whose job entails creating a comfort zone around wine, using the word slutty to describe certain Syrahs on their lists?

One way to answer such questions is to contrast classic Syrah from France's Northern Rhône region with the grape's behavior and vinification on New World soils. In the Northern Rhône, Syrah is a powerhouse, albeit without the head-banging fruit and high alcohol levels associated with some New World namesakes. The assertive flavors of Old World Syrah are woven with olive and smoked blackberry fruit, strung together on an undercurrent of bacon and tar. In short, a wine that's both sexy and sauvage – but slutty? No.

Many New World Syrahs that have entered the wine market in the past decade began their journey from grape to glass in climates warmer than the Northern Rhône valley. Such wines tend to be less earthy, with more new oak influence, plush fruit, softer tannin structure, an alcohol-driven richness and a peppery finish. While big on intensity, warm-climate Syrah can lack the complexity, balance, ageability and earth-driven nuance of classic Old World wines from Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage.

Spurred by the efforts of a group of Rhône-focused vintners that eventually came to be known as the Rhône Rangers, plantings of Syrah in California increased dramatically at the end of the last century, with harvested tonnage jumping nearly one-hundred-fold over the course of a decade, beginning in 1992. Though Syrah covers more California acreage than any other Rhône variety, the Syrah grape crush accounted for three percent of the state's total winegrape crush, according to 2010 figures from the Wine Institute.

New World vines have matured. Site selection continues to evolve. Outside of France, winemakers are climbing the steep slope of the wine-learning curve. Today, California Syrah shines in Edna Valley at Alban and at Kenneth Volk in Santa Maria Valley. Chuck Carlson, one of California's earliest Rhône champions, chose the Santa Ynez Valley as the site for Curtis' Rhône-styled wines. Beyond its varied expression along the Central Coast AVA, Syrah has also found a home in Washington State, where Christophe Baron of Cayuse makes thrilling Syrahs to rival those of his French homeland. These are gorgeous and sexy wines without a doubt, with no sluts in sight.

Syrah slammers may reject Syrahs that seem overripe or over-the-top. While that claim has some basis in reality, it is worth noting that five-alarm alcohol levels, heavy wood and intense fruitiness haven't turned American wine buyers off to Zinfandel or big Cabs, neither of which gets branded as slutty.  

Syrah's a hurting varietal right now. Seductive yet shunned, she languishes on store shelves, passed over for Pinot or some blend that's neither here nor there. Was the Australian wine glut to blame? Or was it that newer wine consumers, confused by Syrah-Shiraz or Syrah-Petite Sirah choose to simply skip it instead? Whatever the reason, cooler climate Syrahs are not only well worth your wine dollar, but will also land you better odds of picking a winner under $20 than a comparably priced Pinot Noir or Cabernet Sauvignon.

New World vintners are now finding their groove with this classic varietal, and the results shouldn't be missed. Get a piece of great value Syrah, as in the Curtis. If you're game to shell out a C-note or more, you can go home with a knockout such as Australia's Penfolds Grange, California's Alban and Justin, or Washington's Cayuse. Mid-range, look for Washington's Abeja and Reynvaan (Walla Walla), Charles Smith (Columbia Valley) and Betz (Red Mountain), among others. Go for a romp with Rhône Ranger Justin or Santa Barbara County's Jaffurs. Whether from a warm or cooler zone, Old World or New, take a little ride with the Syrah style that suits your palate.

Syrah's rich payoff will reward your efforts. Swirl, savor and begin to understand how sultry a wine can be. Just don't call her slutty.