Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Wine, Women & Health: Medicine or Myth?


Does wine help protect against heart disease? That, in a nutshell, was the focus of my presentation last week at Tasty Topics, the monthly educational series put on by the desert's Go Red For Women campaign of the American Heart Association.
Wine, Women and Health provided an update of recent developments and controversies linking wine with health. After a historical review of wine-health associations, the talk centered on the investigative flurry that followed the now-famous Mediterranean dietary studies begun in the late 1950s with Ancel Keys' Seven Countries Study.

But it wasn't white-coated scientists and medical reports that turned Americans' attention to wine. Rather, it was a 60 Minutes television broadcast in 1991 that caused red wine sales to soar. In its French Paradox segment, correspondent Morley Safer asked if the French proclivity for a glass of wine alongside rich, high-fat cuisine could explain that country's paradoxical lower rate of heart disease. Ten years later, the American Heart Association issued a science advisory that noted more than 60 published studies in support of a heart-protective role for alcohol. Groups who drank in moderation, that is, one to two alcohol-containing drinks a day, had significantly lower death rates and lower rates of cardiovascular disease such as heart attacks, strokes and heart failure.

In 2005, a state-of-the-science summary written specifically for heart patients was published in Circulation, the journal of the American Heart Association. The paper cited a risk reduction of about 30%, or about one-third fewer deaths and heart attacks among men and women who drank alcohol in moderation a few times a week.

To answer the question of whether red wine is better than other forms of alcohol, the Circulation paper cited the Copenhagen Heart Study of more than 13,285 men and women who were followed for 12 years. That study found an even greater drop-off in deaths and cardiovascular events among moderate wine drinkers, who were half as likely to die of heart attacks or cardiovascular disease as people who did not drink at all. On another hand, the paper also cited studies in which red wine drinkers did not fare as well, without a clear heart-protective benefit over those who drank beer or spirits.

Studies in test tubes, animals and human studies have pointed to pathways and precise mechanisms that seem to account for the beneficial effects of moderate alcohol consumption on cardiovascular health. For example, one or two drinks daily boost HDL, or good cholesterol. Alcohol also inhibits blood clotting, similar to the way aspirin is used in heart patients to decrease blood platelet stickiness, and thus their ability to clump together to form a blood clot. Compounds in red wine such as resveratrol also appear to help blood vessels relax and maintain healthy tone. These compounds also interfere with wayward processes that churn out protein molecules that damage blood vessel walls.  

Given the many known dangers of overindulgent alcohol use – or any use at all by at-risk populations such as pregnant women, youth and those with a family history of alcohol use disorders – no scientific society endorses alcohol use to reduce risk of heart disease. Instead, the AHA and other medical societies advise patients to discuss alcohol on a one-on-one basis with their doctor. With barely enough time to talk about active health problems, medications, tests, etc., some patients may be reluctant to bring up drinking, or ask about health risks and benefits associated with wine. Further, some doctor-patient discussions may be waylaid by physicians who are unaware, dismissive or who disagree with the AHA advisory.
 
What about recent reports that have linked drinking any amount of alcohol to an increased risk for cancer, specifically cancer of the breast? This is clearly a situation that warrants discussion between patient and physician, with the expectation that oncologists may be more likely to discourage taking on any perceived increase in cancer risk. It's worth remembering, however, that cardiovascular disease kills four of ten American women, more than all types of female cancers, and nearly more than the next five leading causes of female deaths combined. Look for more on this touchy subject in another post.  

If you missed the presentation at Bellatrix at The Classic Club, get on the mailing list for future Tasty Topics or send a gmail to arrange a presentation for your corporate or community. Meanwhile, give a toast to spreading awareness about women and heart disease. Get a read on your own lifestyle and risks here. Learn more about what we can all do every day to live healthier lives by getting involved with Go Red For Women. Salute!

Monday, April 2, 2012

Learn French Wine in 90 Minutes

Is it possible to get your arms around the wines of France in a single tasting session? Can you learn to make sense of French wine labels, not to mention grapes, wines and baffling place names in a mere 90 minutes? While some oenophiles might find such questions preposterous, the tasting group at last month's Wine Essentials: Wines of France answered with a resounding oui!
 
We used a map and pencil to divide the country into three large zones. Two swiggly lines and voilà, the fog surrounding French wines began to clear.

Tasters drew their first line from west to east, just below the cooler vine lands of the Loire, Champagne and Alsace. (The line also separated northernmost Chablis from the rest of Burgundy.)

Next, a second line was penciled below more temperate Bordeaux and Burgundy. This mark also delineated warmer wine-growing regions to the south, bordered by Spain at the Pyrénées: Languedoc Roussillon, Côtes du Rhône and Provence. Off the coast and further south lies Corsica, an off-the-radar source of French island delights. Take a look at this map to put these regions in perspective.

Geography provided visual and conceptual reference points. That framework led us to tackle soil types, terrain and grape varieties that thrive in these climatically distinct regions. By the time we celebrated our arrival at the finish line of our tours de France with a Syrah from the southern Rhône, the group could practically see and taste sunshine in the glass.
With more terroirs, grapes and wines left to explore, this is a class we'd like to replay in the future. Social and corporate groups would enjoy this activity too. Next time, we might feature wines from other French regions or different wines and blends from the areas covered on this wine trek.  

Wine Essentials heads south on Sunday, April 29 with tastes of wines from Spain and Portugal. The map trick might not work as well for Iberia, but bet on geography to help make sense of these captivating wines. Reserve early, as these classes tend to sell out: 760.777.1161 or click here to reserve online.  

Wine Essentials is an open series of wine tasting classes. Each class is independent so you can pick and choose topics, wine styles or regions that interest you most. We welcome those of you who are new to wine, as well as the wine-experienced – all you need is to arrive on time with a clean palate, an open mind and ready for fun. As a courtesy to all, please skip the fragrance.

If you missed French wine essentials and want to try something like this on your own, here are the wines we enjoyed alongside Chef Andie's wine-friendly snacks. If these wines are sold out at the Cooking with Class wine boutique, ask for a similar wine in stock, or place your special order:

Jaffelin 2010 Chablis (Chardonnay)
Marie de Beauregard 2009 Vouvray (Chenin Blanc)
Marie de Beauregard 2009 Chinon (Cabernet Franc)
Jean-Pierre Moueix Chateau Grand Village Bordeaux Superieur 2007 (Merlot, Cabernet Franc)
Chateau de Saint Cosme 2010 Côtes du Rhône Rouge (Syrah)

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Glaciers, Floods and Wine, Oh My!

The rupture of Patagonia's Perito Moreno glacier the other day made ancient history come alive for wine aficionados who attended last week's Pacific Northwest wine essentials tasting class at Cooking with Class. As captured on video, Mother Nature's Patagonian ice wonder provides a mini-version of events that sculpted Pacific Northwest terrain 15,000 years ago.
Unaware of the the Argentine glacial break to come, I'd begun the wine essentials class the week before by describing cataclysmic floods that laid waste to huge swaths of eastern Washington and Oregon at the end of the last Ice Age. Those glacial megafloods, with flows estimated at ten times that of all the world's rivers combined, recurred over a thousand years as water refilled ancient Lake Missoula. Every 50 years or so, a huge backlog of water formed by glacial blockade of the Clark Fork River crashed through ruptures in the ice dam. Each time, titanic waters, massive glacial ice chunks and huge boulders careened from present-day Montana to the Pacific Ocean in just a few hours with energy scientists estimate as equal to that of 4,500 megatons of TNT. That's big.

So what does any of this have to do with wines of the Pacific Northwest? It's the dirt, silly – ancient floodplain, rocky, silty, loamy, volcanic, windblown loess and every meta-combination of soils. Mix great dirt, plenty of high-latitude sunshine, an abundance of microclimates and winds with climate-appropriate grape growing, wine-maker savvy and rugged entrepreneurship and you have a recipe for success in Northwest wines.

Even if some class attendees couldn't wrap their heads around the magnitude of those ancient glacial flood cataclysms, no one had any trouble tasting the beauty and singularity of Northwest terroirs expressed in these five glasses of wine.

Find these wines around town and at Cooking with Class. Or, try your own version of a Pacific Northwest wine tasting at home with your own picks. There are plenty more terroirs and grape varieties to explore, enough to satisfy a range of palates and budgets.

Wine Essentials − Wines of the Pacific Northwest, 26 February 2012:

A to Z 2010 Pinot Gris
Two Vines 2010 Riesling
Lemelson Thea's Selection 2009 Pinot Noir
Purple Hands 2009 Oregon Red Blend
Columbia Crest H3 2008 Merlot

Coming soon, we'll recap this past Sunday's French wine essentials and share sure-fire ways to understand and choose French wines – no French required.

Sunday, January 1, 2012

Wine Toys, Tools and Tips for the New Year

Of all the New Year's resolutions I make, the one I'm most eager to fulfill is to learn more about wine. Even though it's part of my job as wine educator and speaker, the pursuit of wine wisdom is as fun as it is elusive. Whether it's just the two of you, among friends or away from home, the formula of wine + good people + good food = some of life's most precious moments. 
If you too are game to learn more about wine in 2012, here are a few more resources to get you on the road to deeper wine appreciation. For those who'd rather pour than ponder, take a class with us to learn more about pairings or delve deeper into Italian wines or Pacific Northwest wines at our next Wine Essentials tasting classes. Give a gift certificate or keep the great gift ideas below, and in Part 1 of this post, in mind for the wine lover in your life. After all, Valentine's Day is right around the corner.  

Wine Toys and Tools That Really Work

Wine Aroma Wheel
This laminated 8-1/4" learning tool created by Dr. Ann Noble is a must-have for wine lovers. The copyrighted wheel helps you develop sensory memory for aromas and flavors in your wine glass. By wiring what your nose smells to words and categories, the wheel provides an essential bridge from wine tasting to wine smarts. Keep it handy alongside your wine collection or in the kitchen. Start at the center, move outward and use often. Available at Cooking with Class for less than ten bucks.

Classy Wine Aerators
Beautiful limited-edition wine aerators uses a unique "tiny bubbles" technology to instantly aerate your wine so that it's ready to drink when you are. The artist series, hand-painted and tastefully decorated with Swarovski crystals by Nancy Webb, come in three versions: purple fruit, green leaf and red flower. Each aerator is numbered and boxed with a mini-brush, travel pouch and embossed certificate. Available at Libertine, at the Renaissance Esmeralda in Indian Wells.

Drop Stop
Package of four flexible pour disks that goof-proof wine service. Pour like a pro without spilling a drop. Disks are disposable but why waste them? Just rinse and store to get months of use out of each one. Available at Cooking with Class.

Want more stuff to read? Wine columns in major newspapers are worth a regular read, as are wine-related magazines such as Food & Wine, Saveur and Imbibe . Here are wine-focused publications available in print, online and via mobile devices to tap into:

Magazines

Wine Spectator
The hands-down pick for learning about wine, the industry and digging deep

Online and Mobile

Wine Spectator
The online version gives quick access to ratings, special articles, vintage charts, tons more. Mobile apps for iPhone and Android are easy to use for on-the-go info.

Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho wine news, food and travel tips

Some good stuff here, much of it free

Alder Yarrow’s often-esoteric wine blog with links to printable tasting tool, aroma card

Learn Italian Wines
Tom Hyland’s blog, a goldmine for Italophiles

An e-magazine with an edgy, sexy take on wine, beer and spirits. Presents jazzy, good info and tips in an easy-to-read format. Travel and dining tips, shopping and sass. 

Coming soon: 2011 wines to remember

Sunday, December 25, 2011

Holiday Gifts for Wine Lovers

Giving the gift of a bottle of wine to a wine lover can be tricky business. After all, wine aficionados have a reputation for being fussy about wines they like. Never mind that their taste in wine may fall outside your budget. Unless you're a wine geek yourself, there's also a good chance you might miss the mark on a wine they'll really enjoy. And good luck finding a winner they haven't already tasted.

For a different, yet sure-fire way to please a wine lover, give the gift of wine smarts. Wine lovers are a thirsty bunch – and their thirst for wine savvy extends to non-liquid forms, too. That's where these gift ideas come in.
The first of this two-part post presents wine books to thrill the wine lovers on your list. Later this week in Part 2, I'll cover magazine, online and mobile wine treasures, as well as wine toys and tools that really work.

The reading and reference picks below are updated from a resource list I've given out at Wine Essentials, a series of wine education classes at Cooking with Class in La Quinta. Because everyone learns differently, try to pick a format your wine-loving friend will find appealing. All gift ideas here are easy to find locally or order online. Best of all, most won't set you back more than the cost of a good bottle. Happy Holidays!

For the List Lover – Guides and Reviews

Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book 2012
This slim, annual reference by a legendary British wine expert tackles grape varieties, vintage reports, major brands, food-pairing suggestions and hundreds of wines listed by country.

A Toast to Bargain Wines: How Innovators, Iconoclasts, and Winemaking Revolutionaries Are Changing the Way the World Drinks 
By George M. Taber (2011)
A chewy list of splurges, favorites and best buys by country, brands, wine styles and varietals. The first half of the book tells the stories of winemakers who are rattling the vines to create value and drive wine-drinking trends. To take in a remarkable piece of American wine history, pick up Taber's Judgment of Paris, too.

1,000 Great Everyday Wines From the World's Best Wineries
Jim Gordon, Editor-in-Chief
New in 2011, this expert-led hardback serves up wines by world regions with handy tips from reading wine labels to storage and serving. While some prices may not fall into what you consider everyday drinking, the producers and wines in this book are definitely worth seeking out, for budget-seekers and special occasions.

Wine Library Must-Haves

The New Wine Lover's Companion 
By Ron Herbst
The latest 2010 edition is a wine dictionary of sorts, with more than 4,000 entries that cover terms, varietals, techniques, regions, styles and much more. Concise and helpful appendices with tips on glassware, pronunciation, lots more. 

Kevin Zraly’s Windows on the World Complete Wine Course (25th anniversary edition 2010) and Kevin Zraly’s Complete Wine Course (2011)
Region-by-region wine smarts and geography made easy by a straight-talking wine educator. The 2011 edition has smart phone tags to his videos.

Wine Style: Using Your Senses to Explore and Enjoy Wine 
By Mary Ewing-Mulligan & Ed McCarthy (2005)
By presenting wines in four basic styles of reds and whites, plus two each for rosés and sparklers, the authors offer an interesting approach to understanding your wine palate. Best suited for experienced tasters, or advanced beginners looking to learn more.

Grapes and Wines: A Comprehensive Guide to Varieties and Flavours 
By Oz Clarke (2010)
With the author's distinctive charm, this book lists more than 300 grape varieties in an A-to-Z format with pictures, maps and more. The new edition describes Old vs. New World styles, aging capacity and beyond.

Dummies and Idiot’s Guides

California Wine for Dummies 
By Ed McCarthy and Mary Ewing-Mulligan (2009)
Straight talk from Wine Style authors with essential knowledge, maps, AVAs, wine travel tips, history and tips, tips, tips galore. Not to be pooh-poohed, these books are great stepping stones for friends who are just starting to get into wine. Also useful for those who are already into wine, but could use a compass on their wine journey.

Wine All-in-One for Dummies by Ed McCarthy, Mary Ewing-Mulligan and Maryann Egan (2009)
Includes Wine for Dummies (2006), French Wine For Dummies, Italian Wine for Dummies (2001), California Wine for Dummies (2009) and Australian and New Zealand Wine for Dummies. The 2010 mini-edition of Wine for Dummies available on Kindle.

The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics 
By Tara Q. Thomas (2008)
Another great overview of wine with helpful bullets on “the least you need to know.”

For the Food-and-Wine Lovers

Perfect Pairings: A Master Sommelier’s Practical Advice for Partnering Wine with Food
By Evan Goldstein, recipes by Joyce Goldstein (2006)
Much more than its subtitle, this treasure includes essential information on major red and white grapes, sparkling and dessert wines, recommended producers and glossary – a goldmine of useful information with awesome recipes by Evan's mom, the groundbreaking chef-creator of San Francisco's Square One.

Daring Pairings: A Master Sommelier Matches Distinctive Wines With Recipes From His Favorite Chefs
By Evan Goldstein (2010)
Evan tackles 36 grapes with pairing recipes by 36 top chefs, including Suzanne Goin, Philippe Jeanty and Cindy Pawlcyn. There's also a review of concepts introduced in his first book, tips on shopping for wine and an at-a-glance table that summarizes wine styles by varietal. Both books are go-to resources to use over and over again.

The Food Lover's Guide to Wine 
By Karen Page and Andrew Dorenburg
Heavy with tips and comments from master chefs and sommeliers, this duo's latest (2011) book is a one-stop resource for pairing wines with food. Easy-to-use quick lists and timelines make learning about wine fun and provocative. From the authors of What To Drink With What You Eat, another must-have favorite.

For Wine-Loving Men

Swallow This: The Progressive Approach to Wine 
By Mark Phillips
Not for everyone, this humorous guide to wines was written by an iconoclast with a knack for explaining wine and wine concepts in plain English. Big on silliness and fueled by testosterone, but also practical.

Coming later this week in Part 2: Magazines, Online and Mobile for Wine Lovers, plus Wine Toys and Tools That Really Work

Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays! 

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

A Holiday Sparkler from Argentina

Party planners have bubbles on the brain this time of year. Do you splurge for Champagne or go with a domestic sparkling wine? How much should you spend? What should you serve? And of course, how do you open that pressurized bottle without making a mess or unleashing a cork missile?
We uncorked last week's food and wine tasting dinner at Cooking with Class with an Argentine sparkler that's sure to jazz up your holiday get-together – Spirit of the Andes. Made by Tapiz, a winery owned by former nephrologist Patricia Ortiz, Spirit is a sparkling wine made from the Torrontés grape. Although Argentina's Torrontés was once believed related to a grape from Spain's Galicia that goes by the same name, genetic studies indicate that the desirable Torrontés riojano variant or cultivar represents a cross between the pink-skinned Criolla chica (Mission) grape and Muscat of Alexandria. It is this Muscat parentage that gives Torrontés its captivating perfumy aromas.  

Winemaker Fabian Valenzuela follows the traditional or champenoise method used in Champagne to make Spirit. At an average vineyard elevation of 3,000 feet, sustainably farmed grapes ripen in high-altitude sun while cool Andean nights allow grapes to retain their essential acidity. Hand-harvested fruit is first stainless-steel tank-fermented and made into a still wine. Once clarified, the wine is bottled and liqueur tirage, a combination of sugar dissolved in wine plus yeast, is added to kick off second-fermentation fizzes. Next, the wine rests on its lees, or spent yeast for 12 months, after which bottles are turned or tilted to funnel sediment in the neck. To finish the process, the temporary crown cap is released, sediment is disgorged and a small amount of extra brut dosage is added – a fudge factor of sweet wine that the winemaker adds to adjust the wine to its final desirable profile. The bottle is immediately sealed with a natural cork and wire muzzle.

Ah, that nerve-racking muzzle. One tip for safely opening a sparkler under pressure is to use a folded dish towel the entire time you handle the bottle. Find a sturdy surface and an area where an errant cork won't cause any damage. Sandwich the towel between your firm hand and the top of the wire cage. Keep gentle downward pressure with the towel hand as you untwist the cage. Now, still holding firm downward pressure with your towel hand, slowly twist the bottle while keeping your towel hand steady. As you feel the cork begin to emerge, be sure you have control over the cork end with your toweled hand. Control your slow twist on the bottle until you feel the cork pop into your toweled hand. If executed gently and properly, you should have total control of the cork and little, if any, spillage. Voilà, you're a pro!

In the glass, Spirit sends up delicate, white flower aromas with sweet nectarine and honeysuckle on the palate. Bubbles are persistent, as is the finish, all crisp, clean and utterly delightful. The barely perceptible sweetness is balanced by lively acidity, a combination that makes Spirit a worthy choice as an aperitif or with lighter first courses.

Chef Andie Hubka served a grilled radicchio salad with applewood-smoked bacon, Rogue River blue cheese, scallions, grapes and a drizzle of cactus honey. The salad's sweet notes played off the sparkler's tropical fruit basket flavors while the wine's acidity handled the creamy Rogue blue with finesse.

If holiday bubbles have you bemused, give this southern hemi sparkler a pop. At about $20 at Cooking with Class, Spirit of the Andes Sparkling Torrontés will turn your occasion into a celebration in no time. And if you're curious to learn more about the many different types of sparkling wines from around the world, catch some New Year's cheer at this month's wine essentials class on sparkling wines Thursday, December 29 at 6 PM. Sign up here, or call the school at 760.777.1161. Cin-cin!

Thursday, November 17, 2011

The French Paradox, 20 Years Later

Call it preaching to the choir if you want, but a few days of scientific presentations earlier this month at the 6th International Wine and Heart Health Summit confirmed the belief that there are many health benefits associated with a glass of wine at dinner, at least for this attendee.
Dubbed the French Paradox two decades ago by Serge Renaud, famed researcher at the University of Bordeaux, the phrase refers to the strikingly decreased rate of heart attacks and deaths due to heart disease among the French, despite a diet rich in saturated fats, cheeses and assorted high-calorie treats.

CBS correspondent Morley Safer concluded a 60 Minutes broadcast on November 17, 1991 that investigated what might account for the paradox by posing a question: Could the answer be found in the propensity of the French to wash down fat-laden meals with a glass of red wine? The broadcast sent shock waves through the research community as well as the lay public, causing red wine sales in the United States to jump by nearly 40%, and ushering in an era of increased red wine consumption among Americans.

This year's Wine Summit brought together some of the most prominent researchers in this active field. Held at the magnificent Allison Inn & Spa in Willamette Valley, Oregon, the panelists included Arthur Klatsky, MD, and Curtis Ellison, MD (featured in the original 1991 broadcast), as well as young researchers currently investigating other ways in which wine may enhance our ability to combat or stem other diseases from periodontal disorders to dementia. Ralph Brindis, MD, President of the American College of Cardiology also examined historical and political issues surrounding alcohol use and abuse.

Presentations covered a lot of ground. Winemaker David Adelsheim traced the brief, yet red-hot trajectory of Oregon winemaking while Wine Spectator and Oregonian columnist Matt Kramer shared his take on finding wine values. Event host Donald Olson, MD of Torii Mor Winery moderated a spirited panel discussion among Oregon winemakers that included founders from Bergstrom, Ken Wright Cellars (with single-vineyard soil specialist Ken Wright himself), and Jim Bernau of Willamette Valley Vineyards. Bernau told an intriguing story about how he was about to get the US Alcohol and Tobacco Trade and Tax Bureau (TTB) to allow WVV to include resveratrol content of Pinot Noir on their wine labels.

In the two decades since the broadcast, studies have pointed to a range of health benefits associated with not only moderate amounts of wine but also moderate intake of other alcoholic beverages. In case you were wondering, moderate consumption, as defined by the USDA 2010 dietary guidelines for people who choose to drink, means one 5-ounce glass of wine at 12% alcohol daily for women (or two 5-ounce glasses for men) or 12 ounces of regular beer or 1.5 ounces of 80-proof distilled spirits.

While this story is still being written, we're placing bets on a healthy lifestyle that includes wine to come out on top. You don’t just have to take our word for it. Here's a look at FAQs from the Centers for Disease Control that answer a few more questions you may have. This link will take you to a recent CDC report that notes how certain low-risk behaviors – never having smoked, following a healthy diet, getting enough physical activity and moderate consumption of alcohol – can help you live a longer, healthier life. Salute!