Visiting Napa Valley in the off-season has its charms. For
starters, daytime temperatures are comfortable, tasting rooms are less crowded
and restaurant reservations can indeed be had. Plus, with a minimum amount of
planning, you can secure private tasting appointments at great wineries where
you won’t feel rushed or rustled by season-harried staff. For those on a
budget, bargains and hidden gems abound, from restaurants to lodging and
shopping.
El Bonita Motel has an Art Deco history dating back to 1956.
We chose St. Helena as home base for sisters’ weekend, in
part because a two-bedroom unit at the El Bonita Motel was available for only
$150 a night. Located in the renovated building farther back from busy Highway
29, our rooms were comfortable, clean and warm, each with its own balcony and
with breakfast included. Parking is ample and the location is within striking
distance of Yao Family Wines, Yao Ming’s beautiful new tasting room, V. Sattui
(a 15-minute walk away for the daring) and only a few miles from Corison, Vine
Cliff and Beaulieu Vineyards, among many others.
Fuel your Napa Valley adventure with lunch at the reliably
excellent Rutherford Grill. After petting the bronze pig in the garden, step
into the expansive dinner room with its open kitchen and hunger-stoking hickory
smoke aromas. Settle into a cozy booth or, if you sit at one of the long
counters, you might find yourself seated next to a local winemaker grabbing a quick
bite, probably washed down with a palate-refreshing beer.
Your Napa arrival deserves a toast and Schramsberg brut rosé fits the bill, a delectable pink
bubbly served in classy flutes. For starters, go with the grilled artichokes or
share a grilled seasonal vegetable platter (ask about it if it’s not on the
regular menu). For your main course, you won’t go wrong with any of the
Rutherford burgers, the BBQ combo plate or rotisserie chicken, especially with
their perfectly cooked wild rice. Lighter choices include the flying tuna
platter and the kale and tender rotisserie chicken salad with roasted peanut
vinaigrette. Save room for the cornbread, too.
With food in your tummy, wine tasting is next. As more Napa
tasting rooms now require appointments, plan ahead to visit some of the more
in-demand or prestige wineries. Be flexible to improve your chances of
securing a hot ticket by requesting a visit outside of the busy 1 – 4 pm time slot.
This trip, we chose Quintessa, perched high atop a hillside along the Silverado
Trail one day, and picturesque Rombauer the next. More on those awesome
experiences in another post.
Drop-ins are welcome at St. Supéry in Rutherford. The bright
and airy new tasting room offers different tasting flights of the winery’s 100%
estate-grown wines, served by friendly and informed staff. For variety and quality, the broad and
consistently delicious St. Supéry portfolio is tough to beat. Standouts from the two different tasting menus included the Napa Valley Estate 2014 oak-free
Chardonnay, the outstanding 2012 Élu Estate Blend – a great food wine – and the
silky Dollarhide 2012 Elevation, a blend of Cabernet, Malbec and Merlot. Considering
joining a wine club? St. Supéry offers value, perks and options, including red-only or white-only wine clubs. Devotees of their popular Moscato
can choose to belong to its own club. Yes, it’s that good.
By now, a down-home dinner might sound about right. If so, head
to the Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch. Housed in an old barn, the restaurant
sits alongside a popular café and gift shop. The reasonably priced menu features
organic, farm-fresh vegetables and grass-fed beef and lamb from their own farms.
Don’t miss their fresh-smoked dishes too – the heritage St. Louis ribs are sure
to hit the spot after a long day in the tasting rooms lifting and lowering wine
glasses. Like the excellent American bistro Market in downtown St. Helena,
corkage fees are either waived or much-reduced. We took the bring one, buy one
approach.
The next day, venture into downtown St. Helena for a range
of shopping and yes, more wine-sampling ops. The hip and cavernous tasting room
at Orin Swift Cellars, maker of Papillon and the I, F and S Locations wines, welcomes
up to six people, with appointments required for larger groups. Don’t look for
Prisoner here, however. Winemaker David Phinney sold that label in 2013 to
Hunneus Vintners, owners of Quintessa.
The staff next door at St. Helena Wine Center, owned by the
Beringer family, will help you find even more wine to purchase, bring to dinner
or ship. They offer a wine club customized to what you like and don’t like,
plus a selection of rosés seldom
seen outside of Napa Valley.
Even if you’ve blown your budget in the trendy boutiques,
wander up to Steve’s Hardware & Homeware where you’re sure to find
something you simply can’t live without. Comb through their well-stocked
kitchen section tucked away on the right and their Napa-themed gifts.
Cross the street to savor a tasty energy boost at Woodhouse Chocolates. Another family-owned business, Woodhouse boasts sparkling glass
display cases housing perfectly arranged small and irresistible chocolates. Sad
to have missed their seasonal Oscar-like chocolate statuette, we consoled
ourselves with petite heart of darkness, dark hazelnut and espresso treats.
The name of the Napa Valley drive-in was changed, but the sign remains.
Don’t even consider leaving town without a stop at Gott’s Roadside, also on Highway 29 in St. Helena. Surrounding the grab-and-go food
mecca are shaded and sunny picnic areas where you can relax and relish your meal
in comfort, hardly aware of the whizzing traffic nearby. Known for their
burgers and shakes, keep an eye out for specials such as the po’ boy on a
crunchy toasted egg bun and their special shake selections (peanut butter and
chocolate, oh my). Want fish instead? The ahi burger is not to be missed.
Best of all, you can wash down all this goodness with a half
bottle of Lang & Reed Cabernet Franc, a perfect ending to a perfect
weekend.
